Bombay, September 12, 1839, - At 1/2 past 9 pm , Capt. Cogan called, agreeably to appointment, to accompany me on board the steam ship Berenice, to start next day for England. <snip>

September 13, - At 5 am Capt Low, the commander of the steamer, came on board:  in half and hour we left the harbour, and I bade adieu to the beautiful island that gave me birth, and where I had herein passed my life.  Towards 8 o'clock, I caught the last glimpse of the light-house on Colaba Island, which rises 150 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen twelve leagues off the coast; then indeed with heavy heart and full of tears, did I once say "Farewell!" as the lofty light-house faded from my sight.

September 14, - Weather rough; but we were in hopes of getting a moderate breeze and less swell.  I was now introduced to my fellow passengers, who were twenty in number as follows:-

Dr and Mrs GRAHAM
Dr and Mrs HARDY
Capt and Mrs MACKENZIE
Mrs Capt HAINES
Mrs Capt MOORE
Mrs Capt HOBSON
Mrs and Miss POWELL
Capt COGAN
Lieut SHARPE
Mr WILLIS
Capt THOMAS
Dr HOWISON
Lieut HALL
A Portuguese Gentleman
Capt. FOX
And MYSELF

September 15, - Less wind and swell: sea sickness left me.

September 16, - Weather much the same as yesterday.  I breakfasted on the poop, and was introduced to Mrs Moore, who was proceeding to Aden, and there to meet her husband Capt Moore.  I found her an agreeable and intelligent lady, and of excellent conversation.  My breakfast was the first meal I had enjoyed on board, my servants being inexperienced in cooking,  but today they had succeeded better.

The breeze began to blow fresher, and the swell increased.  My worthy friend, Capt Cogan kindly enquired after my health and comfort,  when I explained I took my meals too late, as the servants could not get the cooking -place till the captain's dinner was dressed; when he immediately ordered his own servant to see after my dinner, and provide me with a separate place fro cooking, which he did.

September 18, - The breeze and swell increased, and the vessel was much knocked about.

September 19, - This day I felt but melancholy, especially at seeing Capt Cogan much indisposed.  The swell became tremendously high, the vessel laboured very much, and the engine made only ten revolutions per minute.  The captain complained much of the alterations made in the vessel, by which she was rendered unsafe in bad weather, and her speed and stowage were lessened. 

September 20, - The sea increased considerably, and the vessel laboured so much that the captain hesitated whether to put back or go on.  At length, by removing the chain from the fore to the aft coal-hole, the labour of the vessel was lessened, and the engine made from eight to ten revolutions per minute.  Capt Cogan continued indisposed, which made me quite unhappy.

September 21 - 22, - The weather blew almost a gale: sea heavy.

September 23, - Weather tolerably fine: change of the moon.

September 24, - Close under Socotra Island:  fine day, clear sky and delightful evening, when the ladies danced.

September 25, - Wind again blew fresh; and the vessel in the open sea, between Socotra Island and Cape Gardafui.

September 26, - Very fine weather and calm.  Hoped to reach Aden soon:  about noon caught a glimpse of land, 110 miles from Aden.  <snip>

September 27, - At 2 am being not more than 100 yards from land we fired a gun and rockets, and burnt blue ligts.  At 4 am we reached Aden Back Bay, and near our anchorage we found two government vessels, the 10 gun brig Euphrates, and schooner Mahie, they showed us lights, we let go our anchor, and I went to bed.  <snip> 

<They remained in Aden for two days until September 29>

We took on board two other passengers, Lieut Porter, late Commander of the Semiramis, and Lieut Daniel, late Commander of the schooner Mahie.

September 29, - At about 5am we weighed anchor, and started the engines, which, however, we soon found not to be all right.  Previous to us reaching Aden, the air pump of the larboard engine made a considerable noise, I enquired of the engineers the cause, which they could not explain, but the same pump had made the like nose in the previous trip.  This had been reported to the Captain before leaving Bombay, but the engine was not, in consequence examined  <snip>

September 30, - At day-break we entered fairly into the Red Sea.  About 6 am we received the melancholy intelligence of the sudden death of Hobbine, one of our seamen; the Doctor had scarcely time to bleed the poor man ere he died.  This is my new year's day ,<snip>

October 1, - Our fast day which I passed as pleasantly as possible.  We were knocking about in the Red Sea, though we ought to have reached Suez.  This was the hottest day I remember.

October 2 Weather very warm.

October 3 , - Still very warm; in hopes of getting out of this weather as soon as we reach a somewhat higher latitude.

October 4, - Rather cooler.  At noon we were in lat. 24 degrees.

October 5, - At about 4 am there was an alarm that the vessel was taken on fire; when I ascertained from one of the engineers that the sleeper under the larboard boiler had become ignited.< snip>

October 6, - At about 4pm we anchored in Suez harbour.  <snip>

October 7, - Left the vessel early in the boat with Capt Thomas and Lieut Daniel, and landed in Suez at 9 am after a tedious passage.  The climate at this time of year was delightful.  I now began to make arrangements for crossing the desert, and first went to Mr Hill's hotel, where I found Capt Cogan, who appeared much annoyed at not having secured donkeys for our journey.  My servants reported to me that plenty were to be hired at Mr Waghorn's hotel; and on going there, the manager, who was a Turk, obligingly offered me donkeys, provided that I put up at his hotel at Cairo.  To this I could not consent without again seeing Capt Cogan, whom I had reason to believe wished to serve Mr Hill.  The Turk then offered me a convenient phaeton to cross the desert, for a much less sum than Mr Hill's charge for his cart; and on fetching Capt Cogan to see the phaeton and donkeys, he told me that Mr Hill had deceived him in stating no donkeys could be had, in order that he might fill his carts, to which all travellers prefer donkeys. 

We then hired the phaeton for Capt Cogan and myself at �4 each, or �8 for the whole carriage.  Mr Hill's charge was �6 for each passenger, or �24 for each cart holding four persons, and drawn only by a pair of horses; whilst our phaeton had four horses, for which we were only to pay �8.  We then hired donkeys from Mr Waghorn's for Mrs and Miss Powell, who had experienced the inconvenience of travelling by the cart, which they had, in a previous journey, been compelled to give up in the middle of the desert.

At half past one we left Suez in our gay phaeton, with four horses and a fine Italian driver, who however had some difficulty in managing his cattle till we had got out of the town.  He then drove his horses in hand an as fine a style across the desert as our noble Governor drives his for horse carriage in Bombay.  At half past three we arrived at our first stage, and we stopped about quarter of an hour, and then started again with the same horses.  By six o'clock we reached the second stage; when, feeling disposed for dinner, we took our provisions from the carriage and enjoyed our meal very much; indeed we would have eaten all that we had provided, but, remembering that it must be our only dependence for two days, we abstained accordingly. 

At eight o'clock we started again, but with four camels instead of horses.  They travelled at a good pace, and we intended taking up our lodgings for the night at the third station of middle stage, where good beds were to be had;  the other two stations were not fit to remain an hour in, being infested with swarms of fleas, and the offensive smell of the horses kept there for Mr Hill's carts, under the same roof with the sleeping places.  I was nevertheless informed that these stations had been built by "The Steam Committee", for the express accommodation of travellers crossing the desert.  Unfortunately we missed the third station: the night was very dark, we lost our road and were compelled to stop the carriage and send forth men with lights to find out the track, so that we did not reach the fourth station till about 2 am when we found the accommodation no better than at the first and second stages.  We therefore wished to drive on; but the camels were so tiered that the Italian declared it would be impossible top proceed until the poor animals had rested three hours.  The Italian then kindly made a bed for us with the cushion of the carriage, and small blanket which he had; but we had scarcely laid down tem minutes, before the mosquitoes and fleas were so troublesome and bit so sharply that it was impossible to get any rest.  We then resolved to get into the carriage where Capt Cogan slept soundly, but I could not get a wink. 

About 4 o'clock I got out of the carriage, when I found our Italian driver fast asleep.  I awoke him, but unfortunately we could not understand each other's language.  He could not speak one word of English and I knew not one word of Italian, French or Arabic; but I continued to make him comprehend it was time for us to start.  He then got up, when finding it to be 4 o'clock instead of 5, he appeared somewhat annoyed.  He, however, set about harnessing two camels and two horses to the phaeton, the camels being the leaders, and we started at 5 am.

October 8, - Our driver took it very easy, so that it was 9 o'clock before we reached the fifth station, where we met several ladies bound for Suez.  After breakfast we resumed our journey, and at noon, reached the sixth station, where we met Sir Henry Roper and his party, on their route to Suez.  We conversed a few minutes with Sir Henry, and then started for Cairo.  By six o'clock we reached the seventh station, our camels and horses being completely knocked up.  It is, by the way, a great defect in Mr Waghorn's establishment, that the camels and horses are never stationed there; as they continue upon the road, some drawing the carriage, and others walking beside it; so that they are never wholly at rest, and fresh for the journey.  I may here mention a striking instance f the power of the horse.  A real Arabian grey, which had drawn the carriage throughout the journey (except one stage where we had four camels) whenever we stopped was as lively as at starting, and appeared as fresh as if just out of the stable. 

Capt Cogan was also much struck with this circumstance, observing that he had never seen any horse, like this Arabian, draw a carriage ninety miles, and only be out of harness five hours in twenty three.  At 11pm we were approaching Cairo:  a pair of horses awaited us, which we put in place of two camels, so that we had again four horses, which our Italian had driven with as much spirit as at the outset.  He was indeed a first rate driver, else he could not have driven four horses in such a dark night, along so rough a road.  At midnight we arrived at the gate of Cairo, which we found shut; and all our attempts to gain admission were made in vain.  We, therefore, tried again to make our bed I the carriage, when Capt Cogan who had some experience of the cupidity of Egyptian soldiers, offered one of them a dollar for admission.  This was the right key.  The gate was immediately opened, and we fond ourselves in the narrow and lofty streets of the famed city of Cairo, our driver having taken off he leaders.   At about one o'clock in the morning we reached Mr Waghorn's hotel, where we received great attention, and partook of supper which he had prepared for us.

<Cursetjee and Cogan spent three days in Cairo before boarding the same carriage to join the steamer at Subrow to Alexandria.  There they met the passengers from the Berenice except Lieut Daniel and Capt Thomas.  All were waiting to take the packet to Malta.>

October 17, - Early in the morning, our baggage being ready, we went on board the French steamer Rhamses, Capt ---------; and at 9 am we left the harbour.  We found the accommodation very superior to the Berenice; the people were very obliging, and the only difficulty was in my servants not understanding the French language.

October 18, - The vessel went very quietly.  I visited the engine room: the engine made at Paris, was of 180 horse power, and worked very well.

October 19, - In the morning the Island of Candia was in sight, and at about noon we were nearing it, and steaming delightfully among the islands.

October 20, - Continued among the islands, and saw many towns which to me had an extraordinary appearance; the houses were flat roofed, and built one above the other, upon hills, and, seen from a distance, resembled so many white stones.  At 2pm we anchored at Sera but being in quarantine, could not go on shore, although the vessel laid very close; it is a beautiful harbour with a lighthouse.

October 21, - After breakfast we exchanged the steamer for the Leonidas, and started for Malta at 2 pm.

October 22, - About noon we were abreast the island of the Moorea.

October 23, - About 1 am we sw the Malta light, and in three hours we anchored in quarantine.  <snip>

October 24, - At 2 pm we landed at Fort Manoel, communicating with the Lazaretto island, in the centre of the harbour, there to serve our quarantine.  It is all together very lofty and the landing place has a great number of steps.  We remained here, as it were imprisoned, twenty days; but the place was very beautiful, commanded fine views and we were accommodated with large rooms and every comfort.

<snip>

October 31, - Tired of quarantine.

<snip>

November 11, - Packed up baggage as we learned we were to be released next day.

November 14, - Embarked on board the Acheron about 10 am and about 2 pm we weighed anchor, and fairly put to sea.  The commander of the Acheron, Capt Kennedy obligingly accommodated me as to my religious ceremonies, convenience for cooking &c. 

November 15, - The wind blew very hard; I felt very sea-sick throughout the day.

November 16, - Wind still blew hard.

November 17, - Weather somewhat moderated.

November 18, - Fine weather and smooth water. Spain in sight. 

November 19 Fine weather continues.  The coast of Algiers in sight.  Passed Malaga.  At 10 pm we descried the rock of Gibraltar, and about midnight we moored alongside the pier.

November 20, - After breakfast I went ashore whilst Capt Cogan obtained permission for us to inspect the rock; it is a stupendous fortification, and is supposed to be the finest in the world.  Thence we went on board the Braganza to secure our passage to England and returned ashore.

November 21, - <snip>  About 5 pm we embarked aboard the Braganza, and in two hours we started.

November 22, - Wind blew very hard.  About 11 am we reached Cadiz; it is a splendid town and some of its beautiful buildings were visible from the deck.  We stopped there for about two hours and then started for Lisbon. 

November 23-24, - Wind blew very hard, and sea tremendously high.

November 25, - Weather somewhat moderated.  Early in the morning we saw the land of Portugal.  About 11 am we entered the Tagus, and anchored off the Customs house at Lisbon.  The climate was mild although it was late in November. <snip>

November 26, - About 1 pm we embarked aboard steamer and about 6 pm we left Lisbon.

November 27, - The wind blew very hard, so that the Captain thought it prudent not to attempt to touch at Oporto; the poor passengers who had embarked for this place were, therefore compelled to remain on board, which was a melancholy sight, and they were landed at length at Vigo.

November 28, - About 10 am we clearly saw the town of vigo, and anchored there at twelve o'clock.; we left in about two hours, the wind still blowing very hard.

November 29, - We were now in the Bay of Biscay.  The sea ran mountains high, the vessel laboured very hard, and I felt very sick and miserable.

November 30,- Wind blew very hard.  About 5 pm to my great joy I saw the coast of England, and the Light House on Lizard Point.  About 7 pm we anchored at Falmouth, where some of the passengers landed; and at 10 pm we weighed anchor.

December 1, - About 4 pm we were off the Isle of Wight, after much delay, by keeping company with the steamer Tagus which had broken down.

December 2, - About 6 pm we anchored at Gravesend, where my friend Capt Cogan started for London, to prepare accommodation for me, and I promised to meet him next morning at Blackwall.  I now thanked God that the troubles of my voyage were over, and went to be contentedly.

December 3, - We weighed anchor early, but the fog was so thick that the pilot could scarcely see his way.  At length we anchored at Blackwall about 11 am; in half an hour Capt Cogan arrived, with whom, and my two servants, I went ashore.  <snip>